TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY "RACHEL O'BRIEN WITH RUSMIR SMAJILHODZIC"
TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY RACHEL O'BRIEN WITH RUSMIR SMAJILHODZIC Stevica Markovic and his wife Suncica, fill a jars with "ajvar" in their kitchen in Brestovac, village near the south Serbian town of Leskovac, on September 25, 2017. It's a source of Balkan rivalry but one ubiquitous smell: the wood-fire roasting of peppers wafting through towns and villages each autumn as families prepare the region's best-loved relish. Slathered on bread, nibbled with cheese or served alongside meat dishes, "ajvar" has for generations filled the shelves of winter pantries -- and the rich spread's production is a matter of no little pride. / AFP PHOTO / ANDREJ ISAKOVIC