TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY RACHEL O'BRIEN WITH RUSMIR SMAJILHODZIC Bosnian women bakes red peppers to prepare ajvar on September 24, 2017, in Ljetovik, near the Central-Bosnian town of Kiseljak. It's a source of Balkan rivalry but one ubiquitous smell: the wood-fire roasting of peppers wafting through towns and villages each autumn as families prepare the region's best-loved relish. Slathered on bread, nibbled with cheese or served alongside meat dishes, "ajvar" has for generations filled the shelves of winter pantries -- and the rich spread's production is a matter of no little pride. / AFP PHOTO / ELVIS BARUKCIC