TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY "RACHEL O'BRIEN WITH RUSMIR SMAJILHODZIC"
TO GO WITH AFP STORY BY RACHEL O'BRIEN WITH RUSMIR SMAJILHODZIC Stevica Markovic bakes peppers in preparations of "ajvar" in their kitchen in Brestovac, village near the south Serbian town of Leskovac, on September 25, 2017. It's a source of Balkan rivalry but one ubiquitous smell: the wood-fire roasting of peppers wafting through towns and villages each autumn as families prepare the region's best-loved relish. Slathered on bread, nibbled with cheese or served alongside meat dishes, "ajvar" has for generations filled the shelves of winter pantries -- and the rich spread's production is a matter of no little pride. / AFP PHOTO / ANDREJ ISAKOVIC